
On a late summer day, the Snoqualmie Valley was hot and thick with haze of wildfires from far to the south. The stock and farm were well tended with water, shade, good ventilation, and room to roam through the forest groves at EEC Forest Stewardship. Valentine, the Aussie Cattle Dog that allows me to be her co-worker at Leafhopper Farm, was eager to get a good run in that day, and I could tell we were headed to the mountains. Packing up the 1 essentials in my day pack, I grabbed Val’s leash and pack, extra water for us both, and the basic med kit for scrapes and bruises along the trail. Images of my rout, driving time, the weather for the next few days, and text to my housemate with a hard return plan and location while in the back country assured prompt response, should something go awry.
I’m often out alone in these woods, with a good dog companion and the personal safety gear to feel confidant about back country exploration on a day hike through established trails. It’s almost two hours from major hospital care, but a flight for life of less than 20 min. I can see Seattle from The Trail Head- because I’m 3,600′ above sea-level with a spectacular west facing view across the entire Puget Sound Region, and The Olympic Mountains beyond. This eagle eye view of the landscape inspires me every time I catch this view from the edge of The Central Cascades. Then, through a portal of high evergreen canopy, flanking me with spruce and mountain hemlock, slide alder, and bear grass; I am in the subalpine slopes, looking up at crumbling crags of stillness against arching clouds and glacial carved lakes holding the rains of atmospheric rivers. These waters cascade down tectonic uplifting slopes, and to the north and south of this range, rising up outside this chain, two volcanoes, active maws capped in ice to assure us, it’s not often going to blow it’s top.

For this hike, I’ll be turning my back on coastal drama, returning to the rocks of Cascadia. Layers of mountain peaks stretch out beyond my planned hike for today. The series of bowels I’d be skirting, rising slowly on a smooth course, with no switch backs, climbing a mere 600′ in total. From there, I could take some steep climbs up scree slopes, but alone, that was not my first choice of smart moves of the day. I’d gone up alone once, to see the crest to the next rise beyond, a saddle dipping down a more extreme 3,000′, with countless switchbacks. I’ve never gone down “the back side”, but it’s an established trail, so I have plans to ascend it some day. Today, with the ease of my hike, I did take a few off trail scrambles up small hills to check the forest for mycological activity. There had been some low clouds in recent days, which is enough moisture in the air to trigger many mushrooms into fruiting. Temperatures were another matter. Though it was summer and hot in the valley, up at these heights, the heat was bearable, and a dip into one of the alpine lakes would ensure an opportunity to cool off along the way. Val was fast to her favorite smell spot under a huge boulder along the first scree slope the trail cut through. My path was a logging road legacy trail, towering rock battlements loom above, and one gets the sense that this place is very unstable. The large rocks littering the edge of the trail compel timely movement around to the next bowel.

Wandering over the first of two saddles, I pop out on the vista of Lake Nadeau, which is the smallest of the three. I’ve seen surface activity that leads me to believe there are fish in there- but I’ve not carried a pole in yet. There are steep walls down to the shore line, and I’ve hiked sown to the west end, the outflow, which becomes a series of wetland bogs with forested islands till the next sloping drop to Lake Hancock below. This area is magical, with forested peaks, literal triangle towers with craggy outcroppings reaching up to the sky. I have enjoyed summiting a few of these surrounding spires, and the views are spectacular. Most have a ridge that takes you right up to the tip. I do not scramble or climb rock faces out here, the stone is loose and slipping in many places, and rockfalls lay evident on the slopes all around.

The trail arcs to the east, around a much higher ridge with towering old growth Douglas fir trunks twisting out of stone scree with determined crowning snag. Any tree towering above the ridge line or alone on a slope will be wind torn. The damage shows in missing tops, jagged openings where branches, twice as wide as me, strained under gale and ice, bow low over festoon boulders. My dog has picked up on a pika scent, and stands pointing at a rock crevice where I catch a glimpse of a dark brown blur darting back into the protective stone fortress it calls home. The warren of nests and cash sites woven under tones of fallen mountain face have hosted these rodents, and many other wildlife and plant roots for centuries. Before that, a mile of ice or more ground down the basalt and granite core, remnants of a great volcanic chain in a shallow sea. How can this ocean legacy stand now at over 3,000′? Faults are fascinating, and the thought of a force great enough to lift oceans has my awe. Of course, those dynamic activities of volcanoes and shallow seas happened millions of years ago, a stretch of geologic time my brain cannot fully wrap around, and yet here I am, walking over the second saddle and seeing the white limestone layer of coral, overtaken by basalt, and deep red clay left from a huge glacier lake that could have stood here, over this whole depression, before more uplift drained the melting ice into the sea, leaving fertile sediment in the valley floors far below.



Washington State is an impressive geological map of countless terrains, form exotic to Mesolithic, There are young strata hugging some of the oldest on earth, and that reflects the cataclysmic fault lines that run along our Pacific Northwestern coast. When our North American plate lets loose, the Pacific, Cascadian, and Seattle faults rupture, but it didn’t happen today, so I’ll not dwell on it now. Instead, Val and I come down a crowded stand of blueberry bushes, stepping carefully along the muddy bank to a rock outcropping where I like to leave my pack and gear before dipping into Lake Moolock. The water is cold, sometimes too cold for a long swim. I wear a wet-suit when going in. The clear water reflects turquoise in the shallows, and a midnight blue to black depths at it’s center. I don’t swim into deep water here, especially not alone.
Swimming alone in a remote alpine lake is risky, but driving here was worse on the scale of eminent threat. My wet suit makes me more buoyant, I stay in shallow areas where I can stand and touch bottom, and I don’t overstay my visit into the frigid waters. Still, it’s not the safest choice, but I do enjoy some back country swimming in wild water. The lake is so clear and beautiful, and the wildlife in the water with me is awesome. All the amphibians are here- from newts to the Giant Pacific Salamander. They stay well away, but float around nearby, watching the only real predator threat they’ve encountered (besides each other) in this fish free water feature. All of them would be, before people stocked them with trout. Luckily, this gem remains a haven of native species, for now.

When I plan to swim, I pack fins, goggles, and my snorkel. It’s a little extra weight to my day pack, with the wet suit, but I love the chance to get into wild water, and especially this lake, because it’s always been me with the whole lake to myself, and Val of course. She loves a good swim, and will let me know if she thinks I’m swimming too far away from shore and her watchful eye. The south shore where I spend most of my time, is quite shallow for the first ten or fifteen feet out, then gently slopes down into the depths. The north shore is steep, plunging down in a cascade of boulders from the crumbling mountain above. It’s quite a dramatic scene, but I don’t swim over there often, that’s a little too far when I’m out swimming alone. I have circumnavigated the water with a friend, but we had to take time out on the rocks to warm up half way around. Valley wags her tail with relief when I come back to shore.
After letting the sun dry me, I pack up my wet gear and decide to bush wack out a different way, wandering over the saddle at a higher elevation before dropping down onto an unexplored peak. There is a little thick brush to press through along the edge of the woods, but spruce and fir quickly build a canopy above, catching most of the light, and leaving me to wave through fallen branches and slick needle duff on the slope below. When I hiked in, I stuck to the easy sloping trail. This warmed up my muscles and joints, then I swam, using my whole body to move through the water. Now, my frame was ready for the slanted traversing. There’s no flat ground on these peaks, so your ankles and knees take on a lot of extra work. If you’ve not warmed up for this, injuries are probable. The twisting, bending, and scrambling to get around in this terrain can be strenuous, but I love the exploration and coming across new paths and accesses to the area.
My wander took me across two peaks and down towards the north side of Lake Nadeau, where there would eventually be a shear drop, so I angled left, to the east, and found another old logging road grown over with willow and slide alder. Now a game of twister really started. I love climbing through non spiky vegetation. In the lowlands at home, a lot of shrubs have spikes, which get into your hands when you push back the branches. Here, the smooth young saplings were a welcome handrail through the underbrush. I popped out at the crossroads where the main trial was and headed back around the eastern arch of the lake towards the first saddle. The stone blocks along this causeway are very impressive. They line the trail, flanking either side like some king of prehistoric monument. The white granite glimmers in the afternoon sun. It’s a partly cloudy sky with some smoke haze, but there’s no precipitation in the forecast, so I don’t need to be watching the skies for a ques to descend.
Weather at elevation can be deceiving, so study your forecast well before heading into the high country. Summer storms are not uncommon, with clouds building up on the horizon blocked by towering peaks, which do not herald the storm until it’s over-topping the mountain and coming right over head. Always keep an eye on the ridge-line from the direction your weather usually blows in from seasonally. Today, the clouds were strung out in small billows without a sign of rain. It made exploring more relaxing, I was not worried about wind, fog, or sudden cold drops. All these are possible in the mountains, and I’ve had to hike and drive out of fog banks when clouds are low over the mountains. Having your sight line disappear and the winds pick up can be the start of hypothermic weather. That’s what you’re most likely to die from in this environment.
Most of us are not thinking about subtle drains on our reason, like cold. When you’re moving around, you may not notice the cold, but when you slow down, and the sweat on your skin begins the cooling process, shivers set in, and by then, you’re heading into a dangerous count down. We’ve all been cold, shivering, teeth chattering as we stand in a cold place without the right layers of protection. Maybe you run from a sauna into cold snow and quickly back into the steam room, or wear a t-shirt to run the garbage out in the rain, but imagine being far out in the mountains as you begin to loose feeling in the tips of your fingers. Cold seeps in slowly, taking the feeling out of our limbs, making us slow and groggy. Eventually, people think they are too hot and start taking off layers, even shoes and socks. By then, the brain is in survival mode, and most of our reasoning has gone dormant to keep our core alive. If you are alone in this state, no one else is there to tell you it’s happening. You won’t know until it’s too late.
That’s why I’m up here on a warm sunny day, enjoying the end of long days and extended light to guide me back out on the trail home. It’s been a great outing, and Valentine pants along, having gotten out her zoomies, smelled all the scents, and bounded over every rock and log she wished. We had no wildlife encounters, which seems to be what most people worry about outside. With the dog around, I’ve never encountered anything, most animals know to clear out at the sound or smell of K9s. The most dangerous predator we might encounter in the woods is another human. With that in mind, bears and cougars are a rare site indeed. So are other people at this location, though I have run into others on occasion, with pleasant greetings exchanged. No one joined us in the elevations today, but it was a great solo hike with a clear start and finish. Looking at the time, I see I’ve made it back to the trail head with plenty of time to get back down and home before dark.
The light is changing fast as the sun begins to sink into the west. It’s always good to time your day trips into the peaks with plenty of exit room in your schedule. The last thing you want to do is hike out in the dark. I’m at the truck, and enjoying the sunset from atop a boulder near the road. My drive home is familiar, so I’m comfortable making it in the twilight. I’ve already sent a text to my housemate, letting them know I’m back to the truck and getting ready to come home. I give a clear arrival time so they know when to expect me. Even though the hike is over, the drive could still pose obstacles and hindrances to my safe return home. Still, the vehicle is one step closer to being back in my own surroundings once more. As the last of the orange globe sinks over the horizon, I start the hour long meander back down the mountain and across the upper and lower Snoqualmie Valleys, all the way back to my own ridge on Big Rock Road, names for the large glacial erratic at its start in town.

May we all continue to have safe adventures in the outdoors. With good planning, smart gear, knowledge of the terrain, and sharp self awareness, our journeys into the high peaks can be safe and epic at the same time. Good hiking, biking, driving, and exploring to all.

















































